Day 8: Tangdhar / Tithwal – Read More
Day 9: Bangus Valley & Langait
Tangdhar – Bangus Valley – Langait (via Handwara): About 80 km. / 3 hr.
Sadhna Pass
Muddasar had advised us to leave early from Tangdhar to avoid traffic, as there had been instances where tourists got stuck for hours waiting for clearance through Sadhna Pass.
After a quick and an early breakfast, we bid good-bye to Tangdhar. We had reached the check-post by 9 am. We found ourselves behind a few vehicles at the check-post. About 20 vehicles were permitted to proceed ahead on a first-come, first-departure basis. Traffic was gradually increasing behind us.
As we waited for our clearance, we relaxed at a charming small cafeteria at the check-post serving tempting breakfast items. This location is also known as Karnah. It took us 30 minutes to get clearance to drive through Sadhna Pass, which sits at an altitude of about 10,000 ft.
I was eager to experience the grandeur of Sadhna Pass and witness firsthand the treacherous road, we had cleared through thick fog. As we traversed the mountain top, the view of layered mountain ranges with lush tree cover was breathtaking. Personally, I believe this place would be a photographer’s paradise, especially at sunset or sunrise. Equally it would also be stunning when blanketed in snow. Planning a trip here in early March would likely offer panoramic views. While the government endeavors to keep Sadhna Pass operational year-round, locals cautioned that heavy snowfall could cause closures for a day or two. It’s wise to take precautions accordingly. More importantly, overnight accommodations are only available in Chowkibal or Tangdhar, so plan your journey accordingly to avoid being stranded.
Bangus Valley
It was then that I learned the fascinating truth: Bangus Valley is split into two distinct sections – Chota (Small) Bangus Valley and Bada (Big) Bangus Valley. Each section can be approached from different directions, with Chota Bangus accessible via Chowkibal and Bada Bangus approached from Langait. This revelation added a layer of intrigue to our journey, making me excited to explore both ends of this picturesque valley.
As we ascended, the route to Bangus Valley became increasingly scenic. The wildflowers lining the road provided a stunning backdrop for photographs. We passed through a small tribal village where the houses resembled those near Keran. These nomadic people move from place to place with their cattle and possess a wealth of knowledge about the flora and fauna. If we could communicate with them, we could learn a great deal. It’s intriguing to consider whether the population of these nomadic tribes is growing or declining and whether their descendants are inheriting forest trade secrets or migrating to cities for a different lifestyle.
The sprawling meadows of Bangus Valley will enchant you with their lush green expanses. The Chota and Bada Bangus Valley’s, each is so vast that covering both on foot would take an entire day. Opting for horsepower to explore the valley is the best choice. So, we decided to hire a horse to explore the valley, with Danish persuading me to cover the entire expanse, including Bada Bangus Valley.
As we embarked on our horseback adventure, I soon realized my mistake. In just few minutes, the horse skillfully navigated jumps over canals, ascended and descended varied terrain, and dodged sheep and other obstacles. My heart raced with every step. Ultimately, I decided to forgo our trip to Bada Bangus Valley, instead observing children’s Independence Day march, sheep grazing, and horses galloping effortlessly across the valley. It was a moment of serene observation, with foals following their mothers in a graceful display.
Danish insisted that Bada Bangus Valley was even more beautiful, but I contentedly joked that I needed a reason to return.
The beautiful valley is currently off the tourist radar, with most visitors preferring destinations like Gulmarg and Sonmarg due to proximity.
However, if even a fraction of them diverted here, the local authorities might struggle to manage the valley’s upkeep. Implementing a Responsible Tourism policy, banning loose plastics, etc., and providing suitable alternatives should be prioritized.
Hunt for Night Stay @ Langait
Despite wanting to linger in Bangus Valley, time pressed on, and we reluctantly bid farewell with a promise to return soon. Our next stop was supposed to be the Drangyari Range, but lacking contact details for our stay in Langait, we decided to head straight there. Danish was unfamiliar with Langait. Further we had no contact details to reach our unspecified cottage.
Arriving near Kupwara for a quick lunch around 3 pm. As we made enquires to locate the forest department-maintained cottages, we realized our predicament. No one was aware of such stay arrangements in the area. We decided to rush to Langait to avoid getting lost in the dark. Fortunately, after little struggle we stumbled upon the Forest Office at Langait, where Mr. Aslam came to our rescue.
Mr. Aslam went on to explain that they had attempted to reach me three days prior, only to find I had changed my plans. In my presumption, I had mistakenly dismissed the unknown call from Chandigram. A mistake which had put us in a precarious position. Since they were not expecting me, the caretaker and cook – both rolled in one, was given a day off. Together with Mr. Aslam, his deputy, Danish, and myself, we set off to Handwara to pick up the caretaker-cook. Along the way, we discussed dinner plans, adding provisions from local market.
Mr. Aslam informed us that our cottage was located about 20 km. away within a forested area.
The unexpected turn of events made the journey exciting, and I couldn’t help but feel grateful for our stroke of luck. With keys in hand and provisions secured, we headed towards our cottage, eager for the comforts of a warm meal and a peaceful night’s rest amidst the forested tranquility of Langait.
Exploring the options presented by Mr. Aslam, we decided to inspect both sets of forest department cottages. The first one, newer and more modern, nestled closer to civilization with a river flowing nearby. The other, situated high in the mountains, offered complete isolation and a communion with nature. Though I was drawn to the second option, Mr. Aslam’s recommendation prompted us to choose the first.
Mr. Aslam enlightened us about the area’s topography and clarified that this route provided actual access to Bada Bangus Valley. He highlighted that travelers could approach Bangus Valley from either side, depending on their itinerary. The forest department had also set up tents in Bada Bangus Valley for tourists, a thoughtful initiative.
Venturing to a stream marked as Wadar by Google Maasi, we were joined by Mr. Bhat, a botanist. He shared insights into the distinct flora of the region, distinguishing features between pine trees in Kashmir and Jammu, and the industrial uses of tree resins. Mr. Bhat’s knowledge enriched our forest experience, although he also cautioned about black bears in the area, recounting a recent sighting. We learned about the symbiotic relationship between the forest department and the nomadic tribes, who shared crucial forest information.
Returning to our cottage after a refreshing dip in the river, we found the accommodation to be excellent. With a spacious living room, kitchen, reception area, and two bedrooms with attached toilets, the cottage provided comfort amidst nature. My bedroom, adorned with a walnut bed, offered views of the mountains and the soothing sound of the nearby river. As we enjoyed tea and snacks, conversation turned to the challenges of forest conservation. Despite active patrolling, poaching remained a concern, evidenced by seized tree logs marked for auction.
Mr. Aslam’s dedication was evident as he prepared for an 80 km. patrol that would keep him occupied throughout the night. His commitment to duty was inspiring, leaving me in awe. I would have loved to join him on his patrol, eager to hear the tales he held. The enduring connection with Mr. Aslam and Mr. Bhat, marked by occasional calls, speaks volumes about their affection. Their example urged me to foster deeper connections with my friends in my own life.
The caretaker-cook impressed us with his culinary skills, a testament to his frequent side orders for cooking at marriage ceremonies. As we shared stories over dinner, he proudly spoke of his eldest daughter, who not only excelled in her studies but also attained a black belt in martial arts, garnering numerous awards and recognition. I was astonished to learn that martial arts had made its way to such remote corners of India, a testament to the power of determination and passion. Meeting these humble, genuine individuals made me feel truly fortunate. Their willingness to go above and beyond to ensure my comfort and enjoyment was deeply touching. True connection, I realized, requires innocence and humility.
During our stay, news emerged that the Supreme Court had begun hearing arguments regarding the abrogation of Article 370. While I was engrossed in my vacation, Danish closely followed the case through YouTube videos, recognizing its significance for the future of Kashmiris. Despite its potential impact, I observed no sense of dissent among the locals regarding Article 370. Whether it was due to indifference, suppression of feelings, or restricted discussions, politics seemed distant from their daily lives.
Lt. General KJS Dhillon’s autobiography offered an Indian Army perspective on the situation, but I acknowledged the need to explore diverse viewpoints, including the Kashmiri perspective. However, I consciously avoided delving too deeply into politics, preferring to focus on enjoying the natural beauty of the valley. Politics isn’t my forte, and I would likely make a mess of any political post I was nominated for.
Danish’s growing preoccupation with YouTube videos signaled his unease, a departure from our usual evening chats. Mr. Bhat shared stunning photographs of Bangus Valley adorned with red-pink flowers, prompting me to extend my stay and explore Bada Bangus Valley further under Mr. Aslam’s hospitality. As everyone retired for the night, I found myself by the window, half-hoping to catch a glimpse of the black bear and her cubs in the darkness. Reflecting on the day’s events, I pondered the “what ifs” of our journey – from starting early in Tangdhar to exploring Drangyari Range. With gratitude for the luck that had guided us thus far, I drifted into a peaceful sleep, feeling as content as a sleeping babe.
If you’re planning a trip to Bangus Valley with overnight stay in the cottage or Kashmir, we at HappyHorizon would be thrilled to customize your holiday plans to enhance your travel experiences. Feel free to reach out to us: connect@happyhorizon.in
Day 10: Limber Wildlife Sanctuary – Read More
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Sukumar Jain, a Mumbai-based finance professional with global experience, is also a passionate traveler, wildlife enthusiast, and an aficionado of Indian culture. Alongside his career, which includes diverse roles in international banking and finance, he's working on a wildlife coffee table book and enjoys sculpture and pottery. His interests span reading non-fiction to engaging in social and global networking.