Preamble: Hampi – Tale of Two Civilizations – Read More
Day 1: Hubli to Hampi
170 Kms. / 3 Hrs.
So, my college buddy hooked me up with this awesome driver, Ganesh, for my Hampi trip. Let me tell you, he was an absolute gem – professional, humble, and always there with a helping hand, even when I didn’t ask. Dude had a sixth sense for sniffing out my needs and troubles, I swear! Ganesh didn’t gab much unless you prompted him, but trust me, he was the real deal. If you ever need a ride around Hubli, hit up Ganesh on +91 99015 88682 and tell him I sent ya.
So, there I was, touching down at Hubli airport, and boom! Ganesh was waiting for me, ready to roll to Hampi.
We hit a snag getting out of Hubli thanks to the city traffic, but once we hit the expressway, it was smooth sailing. Picture this: lush farmlands on either side, windmills dotting the landscape like giant pinwheels, and not a single roadside dhaaba in sight.
Note to self: pack snacks from Hubli next time. We did manage to score some guavas and coconut water from a little village pit stop, though.
Now, let me tell you about my first glimpse of Hampi. As we rolled through this tiny rock gate into the fortified city, I swear I felt like royalty sneaking into a secret party. You could still see remnants of the old fortress walls – it was like stepping into a time machine.
Once we got past the gate, it was like entering a whole new world of hills and boulders. Hampi’s like this giant playground scattered with the jaw-dropping leftovers of the Vijayanagara Empire. The Empire used to flourish around the Tungabhadra River, aka Pampa Sarovara. And get this, the town’s mentioned in ancient inscriptions as Pampapura, named after the goddess Parvati herself! Over time, Pampapura became Pampa and then, ta-da, Hampi.
As per the plan the Dr’s were to join me at Hampi the following day. So, I decided to kick things off with a solo adventure and headed straight for Hemakunta Hill to catch the sunset showdown.
Hemakunta Hills – the Golden Peak
As soon as I stepped inside the gate at Hemakunta Hills, my eyes locked onto this massive Ganesha statue carved out of monolith stone.
A guide, spinning tales to a bunch of tourists, claimed it was named after Ganesha’s mustard-seed shaped belly. I mean, I couldn’t quite see the mustard seed resemblance, but hey, who am I to judge?
Anyway, with the sun setting in the background, that statue looked absolutely stunning. I stood there admiring it for some time.
As I hiked up the hill with the tour group, our guide spilled the beans on the hill’s history. Apparently, this was the spot where Shiva in the form of Virupaksha and Parvati in the form of Pampa tied the knot, with Parvati having to twist Shiva’s arm a bit to say “I do.” Legend has it that as the marriage ceremony took place, the gods showered golden flowers from the sky, hence the name Hemakunta Hill, aka Golden Peak.
From the hilltop, you get this killer view of the agricultural valley below, with ruins scattered all around. These structures, made of solid granite blocks stacked without any mortar, were a marvel to behold. Some had intricate carvings, while others just balanced precariously on the slope, with monkeys having a blast hopping around them.
At the far end, you couldn’t miss the Virupaksha Temple, shining like a beacon with its golden dome glowing in the setting sun.
Pro tip: Get here early to soak in the vibes before settling down for the panoramic sunset.
By the time I wrapped up at Hemakunta Hill, darkness had settled in. Luckily, my homestay in Kamalapur wasn’t too far, and Google Maasi (my affectionate nickname for Google Maps) led the way like a pro. My host, Lakshmi, was an absolute sweetheart, offering Ganesh a cozy spot to crash for the night too. After freshening up, Lakshmi suggested we hit up Mango Tree for dinner, and boy, was it a good call.
Most of the restaurants in Hampi are decked out with two seating styles – regular table and chair setups and these cool diwan-style setups with low tables and cushions. Add in some chill tunes, soft lighting, and tasty grub served up by super enthusiastic staff, and you’ve got yourself a bohemian dining experience. Oh, and did I mention they’ve got Israeli food on the menu too, just to spice things up?
Our server, Raju, was a real trooper with a smile that could light up the whole joint. Mid-meal chatter about his life caught the manager’s ear, and he shared Raju’s story with us. Turns out, Raju was working his tail off to save up for his sisters’ weddings, putting his own dreams on hold in the process. The manager even showed us Raju’s ancient button phone as proof of his dedication. I was floored by Raju’s commitment to his family, and I made sure to thank him for his stellar service. He insisted we catch the sunrise from Malyavanta Hill and Matanga Hill next, and you know what? We were sold.
The next morning, bright and early, we set off for Malyavanta Hill to catch that epic sunrise. The Drs had rolled into town, but they were beat from the drive, so we agreed to meet up later during the day at Vitthala Temple.
January 2024
If you’re planning a trip to Hampi or travel through Karnataka / India, we at HappyHorizon would be thrilled to curate your holiday plans to enhance overall travel experiences. Feel free to reach out to us: connect@happyhorizon.in
Day 2: Hampi – UNESCO Heritage Site – Read More
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Sukumar Jain, a Mumbai-based finance professional with global experience, is also a passionate traveler, wildlife enthusiast, and an aficionado of Indian culture. Alongside his career, which includes diverse roles in international banking and finance, he's working on a wildlife coffee table book and enjoys sculpture and pottery. His interests span reading non-fiction to engaging in social and global networking.
