Day 3: Read More
Day 4: Travel – Bandhavgarh NP to Kanha National Park
Bandhavgarh NP – Kanha NP: 225 kms / about 5 hrs
Subash and his spirited team had left no stones unturned to elevate our stay to an indulgent odyssey. As we reluctantly left, we could not thank Subash and his team enough for making our stay comfortable from delectable feasts to impeccable service, their hospitality was nothing short of a maharaja-style treatment, warranting a special acknowledgment. We found ourselves trailing behind our schedule by a modest 30 minutes. Ramesh, the elder brother of our trusty chauffeur Ravi, who had ferried us from Khajuraho, stood patiently awaiting our departure. With a lengthy journey looming ahead, Subash, ever the provider of thoughtful gestures, had prepared a tantalizing lunch parcel for us — a delightful ensemble of aloo parathas, accompanied by curd and pickles. It was a flavourful send-off, a culinary blessing for the road ahead.
Day 5: Kanha National Park
Kanha NP is divided into four core zones: (i) Kanha / Khatia, (ii) Kisli (iii) Mukki and (iv) Sarhi. The NPs are contagious piece of forest area, but in order to manage flow of tourists and ease of internal administrative works, the NPs are often divided into various zones. In some of the bigger NPs, one or more zones can be accessed through a common gate.
Kahna and Kisli zones can be accessed through a common gate – “Khatia Gate”, while Mukki and Sarhi have “gates” dedicated for themselves under their nomenclature respectively. So my advice is to first book your safari’s based on your preference (and more importantly the availability) and then select your accommodation, which should be closest to the selected “gate” or midway to two gates. Some gates are far away from each other, so please select your zones / gates carefully after considering the travel distances between your accommodation and “gates”. Probably, because of perceived complexity in selecting the zone, etc. most of the tourists settle for an off-the-rack package tour or just cover one / two gates.
While it is not officially represented, it’s technically possible that you could explore a major portion of the zone through two gates, because the forest area is common. In Kanha, you could explore a part of the Mukki zone through Khatia gate. The Sarhi zone / gate is about 90 min. drive from Khatia gate and hence often by-passed. The Kanha NP is spread over 2,000 sq. km area which includes both “core” of about 700 sq. km and “buffer” of about 800 sq. km.
Morning Safari: Kanha / Khatia Zone & Evening Safari: Kisli Zone
In the forest, deer’s and monkey’s cohabitate. They have informal system of alliance which works for mutual benefit. The monkey’s as they move on the tree or hop from one tree to another tree, they inadvertently drops fruits and leaves of the trees, which the deer can graze on under the tree. The monkeys also keeps a watch on the movement of the predators. They have a high vantage point from the trees and they can relay signals (“alarm calls”) such as the movement of the Emir. The alarm calls are transmitted by one monkey to another and soon that part of the forest can be on alert mode. Deer’s have a strong sense of smell and their alarm calls are based on their ability to trace the fragrance of the predator. Their alarm calls can warn the monkeys on the grounds about an approaching predators like leopard. Leopards can climb the tree effortlessly and can chase a monkey for the kill. Peacocks are also known for their alarm calls in the forest warning of the predators nearby. I call these alarm calls as “Alliance of Survival”. These alarm calls vary in sound, pitch and frequency of intervals, to not only distinguish the type of predator but it also varies to notify if the predator is on the move or resting near-by. I am yet to learn to distinguish the alarm calls of one animal from another, so to distinguish the variation of alarm calls from the same animal, is a second order of challenge. The guides who accompany with the jeep safari are well trained and familiar with all the sound of music which happens inside the forest. Even the jeep drivers are well versed with the animal kingdom; their skill lies in reading the pugmarks on the side lines of jeep trails and alarm calls.
Sukumar Jain, a Mumbai-based finance professional with global experience, is also a passionate traveler, wildlife enthusiast, and an aficionado of Indian culture. Alongside his career, which includes diverse roles in international banking and finance, he's working on a wildlife coffee table book and enjoys sculpture and pottery. His interests span reading non-fiction to engaging in social and global networking.
