Noty Boyz in Vietnam: A Short Getaway

Ah, memories of our last “Boyz” escapade to Goa in the mid-90s still make us grin from ear to ear! No social media or smartphones to distract us back then, just pure, unadulterated fun! But over the years, we’ve tried and failed to recreate that magic. So when the chance came knocking again, we all jumped aboard faster than you can say “What the Pho” and with all the gusto of a bunch of excited kids in a candy store!

Our man “Maggi” was the mastermind behind this adventure. Picture this: one day, out of the blue, he declares he’s off to Singapore and suggests we turn it into another epic Boyz trip. I’m not sure how we all fell for the holiday idea just because Maggi was travelling from Mumbai to Singapore. It seemed destined to happen, so it did. Now, how could we resist? Maggi’s known for his quirky charm, which earned him that catchy nickname.

Next hurdle? Picking a destination that wouldn’t raise any eyebrows with our respective Home Ministries. Thailand? Too much drama! We just wanted to kick back, crack open some cold ones, and make memories. So when someone threw out “Hanoi,” we all jumped on board faster than you can say “adventure awaits!” My idea of exploring rustic Cambodia was shut down even before I could complete the sentence.

Enter “Munna,” our go-to guy for sorting out flights and logistics. We’ve known each other since our school days, and “Munna” has been his moniker ever since. Funny how life turns out, huh? Now he’s living it up in Dubai, running a travel empire like a boss!

After some back-and-forth, we nailed down an itinerary spanning six glorious days, hitting up both Hanoi and Ha Long Bay. With the Boyz scattered across Mumbai, Pune, Riyadh, Dubai, and Singapore, pulling off this logistical masterpiece was no small feat. But thanks to Munna and his crack team, we made it happen!

Munna and Sheikh-Bhai were set to jet off from Dubai, while FoxPro was coming from Riyadh and Saala from Pune. All four were bound for Mumbai to catch the same flight to Hanoi with the Mumbai crew – Jija-ji, CFO Shaab, Sex-Sex, and yours truly, Keedha. Maggi and Gulla were due to join us in Hanoi from Singapore.

FoxPro had a little romance on the side, teaching a pretty girl a computer software called FoxPro. But when her lesson was over, she playfully pressed Ctrl + Alt + Delete. So, we lovingly dubbed him FoxPro, to keep that memory alive!

The rest of us made it to Mumbai airport on time, only to encounter another surprise. Munna’s visa was processed using his old passport, which he left at home. We lost our commander before we even left! While Munna scrambled to fix things, the rest of us chowed down on vada pav and misal pav, courtesy of yours truly, satisfying the cravings of the NRIs among us. As Shiekh-Bhai wisely pointed out, not eating vada pav wouldn’t solve Munna’s problem.

Our midnight VietJet flight was smooth as silk, and we snoozed like babies.

Money Saving Tip: If anyone needs a discount on VietJet tickets, hit me up!

Hanoi

Touching down in Hanoi, the weather was crisp and cool – a bit of a shocker for me! Always check the weather before you pack, folks. We sorted out our currency and grabbed local SIM cards. Best bet? Bring US Dollars from India and swap them for Vietnamese Dong (VND) at the airport. The hustle for foreign exchange and SIM card business is real here, a stark contrast to back home. Instead of aggressive salesmen, pretty salesgirls beckoned us from inside their booths. It’s all about the culture, I guess!

Vietnam’s road infrastructure is good, though the streets of Hanoi are swarming with scooters carrying everything from people to plants. Our hotel in the Old Quarter was a 45-minute ride from the airport. Daisy at the front desk hooked us up with an early check-in, and we wasted no time heading out for breakfast at a local cafe she recommended.

Our family-run cafe find was a few blocks from the hotel. They had an English menu, but communication was still a bit tricky. English isn’t widespread on the streets of Hanoi, but we managed just fine. The place was packed with students tackling their assignments. Most cafes offer outdoor seating on low stools and tables. We savoured Vietnamese coffee, the country being the second-largest producer of coffee in the world.

The Old Quarter is a tourist magnet and a bustling local market. It’s a blend of old-world charm and modern chaos, where you can witness locals hustling to make a living. Watch your step on the narrow side-walks, though, as scooters zoom past! Staying in the Old Quarter gives you a real taste of Vietnam.

Travel Tip: I highly recommend staying in the Old Quarter’s on your visit to Hanoi.

By the time we returned to the hotel, Gulla was due to arrive. Back in college, Gulla showed us how to squeeze every last drop from a rasgulla before devouring it. Since then, he’s been stuck with the nickname “Gulla,” much to his chagrin.

It was heartening to see that Shiekh-Bhai hadn’t lost his sharp wit over the years, despite being away from India for so long. Some things are just ingrained in the DNA. Back in college, all the girls in our group would confide in Shiekh-Bhai; he was the unofficial brother figure for all. We used to call him “Bhai” back then, and now that he’s in Dubai, his nickname has evolved to “Shiekh-Bhai.”

Sauntering through the Old Quarter towards our destination, we couldn’t resist stopping for another round of coffee at a charming local cafe. It wasn’t just the caffeine calling to us; the cozy vibe of the place was equally enticing. While sipping our Vietnamese brew, we couldn’t resist snagging some semi-raw mangoes from a street vendor. This brought back memories of childhood adventures plucking mangoes from nearby gardens. Ah, those summer vacations synced perfectly with mango season!

The Old Quarter has long been the bustling trade hub for various local goods. With 36 lanes/streets within its bounds, the area earned the alternate local name of “36 Street Hanoi”. Each street was named after the goods it offered, with “Hang” preceding the name. Over time, some street names have changed, and certain products have disappeared with changing times and utility.

When Google Maasi couldn’t lead us to the restaurant – Met R, we resorted to the age-old method of asking locals for help. “Met R,” was a cozy little joint. We dove into the local specialities – Pho and Bun Cha. There are two varieties of Pho: beef or chicken. The beef version, known as Pho Bo, is Vietnam’s national dish. It’s made with rice noodles, beef or chicken broth, sliced beef or chicken, ginger, and fresh spring onions. Rice noodles are called Bun. While the carnivorous members of our group relished their spread, us veggie lovers were served a dish with mushrooms and salads on the side, meant to be rolled into delicate rice sheets and dipped into various sauces. Gulla was a natural at it and guided us through the art of rolling. Rolling weed might be easier and less messy, I thought. We washed it all down with the local brew, “Saigon,” named after the old moniker of Ho Chi Minh City.

Vietnamese folks struck me as soft-spoken and deeply rooted in family and community values. Religion isn’t a major factor here; most follow folk culture. As part of this culture, people have small altars in commercial establishments to ward off evil spirits and pray for luck and success. I learned they have similar altars at home too.

And let’s not forget the abundance of massage parlours in the Old Quarter, offering foot and body massages to weary travellers. These are nothing like the ones you’d find in Thailand, mind you. Prostitution is technically illegal here in Vietnam.

After lunch, we strolled over to Hoan Kiem Lake, buzzing with the vibrant energy of tourists and a few locals squeezing in their evening walk amidst the crowd. As we neared the lake, the market area bustled with souvenir shops and eateries galore. Note Coffee Cafe stood out, renowned not for its brew but for tourists plastering Post-Its all over its walls.

Opting for a quieter spot by the lake, we settled into a cafe with an open-air seating, perfect for people-watching and gossiping. Ordering exotic coffee blends like Egg Coffee and Coconut Coffee, we indulged in the caffeinated goodness. In my opinion, coffee is best enjoyed black. En route to the cafe, we couldn’t resist the classic tourist move – a photo session by the lake. A group of young girls from Japan and South Korea seemed intrigued by us Boyz, perhaps drawn to our dark South Asian charm. We offered to snap some group photos, much to their delight.

A shoe-polishing street vendor caught CFO-Shaab’s attention, who eagerly handed over his shoes for a shine. But after 20 minutes without a return, we went on a hunt. Turns out, he’d collected a few pairs from the cafe, and CFO-Shaab’s shoes were last in line. It dawned on me that the shoe-polishing vendors that once lined Mumbai’s local train stations have vanished. Back when we were young professionals, getting our shoes polished after a train ride was routine. With the city’s growth, such nostalgic charms fade away.

Half a day can easily slip by exploring the lake area. Growing weary, we headed back to the hotel, treating ourselves to a foot massage session.

The Old Quarter lies to the north of the lake, while the French Quarter sits to the south, boasting grand buildings reminiscent of Parisian style. These buildings, now government offices, sport various shades of yellow, a striking sight indeed. Vietnam’s governance leans socialist, with a single political party in charge. Despite gaining independence from France in 1945, Vietnam endured internal conflicts until its unification in 1976. Industrialization is on the rise, with Ho Chi Minh City leading the charge as the country’s commercial hub and Hanoi serving as its capital.

Later in the night, our mini-van whisked us to Spices Taste of India, an Indian restaurant for dinner, within a modern suburb of Hanoi brimming with tall buildings and wide roads, a sharp contrast to the Old Quarter’s quaint charm. Arriving at the restaurant, Gulla, Saala, and I opted to explore alternatives. Language barriers made it tricky, and most local joints lacked vegetarian options. Eventually, we stumbled upon a local pizza spot with a single veggie pizza, cold beer, and English-speaking staff – a win in our book! As we all reached marriageable age, Saala tricked Jija-ji into marrying his pretty younger sister. By virtue of this new relationship, they earned a combo nickname “Saala – Jija-ji”.

After dinner, we were all hyped to dive into the city’s nightlife. Our mini-van dropped us off at Beer Street, a lively hub packed with nightclubs and street food stalls. It felt like the entire young population of the city had gathered there for a feast. The street was lined with tiny stools and tables, perfect for mingling and munching. But beware! As soon as you step foot onto Beer Street, young boys barely out of their teens approach you with offers for “Boom Boom,” their code word for a certain activity. It doesn’t take Sherlock Holmes to figure out what they’re suggesting. Armed with photos of females striking various poses (likely doctored), they try to reel you in. It’s a hilarious yet sad sight to see youngsters pulled into such shenanigans at such a tender age. To soak up the lively atmosphere, we settled into a bar for a few more brews before calling it a night. Beer Street is within walking distance of the Old Quarter, so staying in that area is a smart move.

The next day, we treated ourselves to a well-deserved lie-in, snoozing until around 9ish. Munna and FoxPro joined us for breakfast at the hotel before our mini-van was set to whisk us away on a city tour.

Sex-Sex and I decided to skip the tour and catch up on sleep. It was during our Goa trip that Sex-Sex earned his unforgettable nickname. A transgender individual chased him down, repeatedly shouting “Sex-Sex-Sex.” We’re still not entirely sure what triggered that event, but it’s a tale that’ll stick with him for life. Plus, some of us Boyz owe our alcohol-drinking prowess to Sex-Sex’s expert guidance and motivation.

As we lounged in the room, my Bumble app pinged with a match. Linh, a local Vietnamese resident, and I exchanged a few messages and agreed to meet for coffee. Linh kindly offered to pick me up from the hotel and show me around the city’s Old Quarter. While waiting for Linh outside the hotel, I attracted the curiosity of some young kids once again, obliging them with photos and extending the offer to their mother too. Right on time, Linh arrived, and we set off to explore the neighbourhood.

As we strolled away from the bustling Old Quarter, the streets grew quieter, it being a Sunday. We passed by an elegant French-style building painted in a striking darkish yellow, which Linh explained was a government administrative building. As we wandered, we stumbled upon an Art Street adorned with graffiti-covered walls. Nearby, we spotted locals smoking through long bamboo pipes, adding to the area’s intrigue. Linh pointed out an elegant boutique showcasing traditional Vietnamese dresses, mentioning she’d ordered one in red for herself.

Our stroll led us to Train Street, an active railway track cutting through a densely populated area. People live and work dangerously close to the tracks, with trains passing by a few times a day. It’s become a tourist attraction, with numerous cafes sprouting up alongside the tracks. Back home, our local trains pass through similar areas, but they’ve never become tourist hotspots.

We settled into a cozy coffee shop on the first floor near Train Street, sipping coffee and nibbling on snacks as we chatted for hours. Linh was full of chatter, sharing insights into Vietnamese life, culture, and her profession as a legal expert specializing in Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) at one of the country’s top law firms.

Ha Long Bay

The Boyz cut their city tour short, and we decided to head off to Ha Long Bay bright and early. Maggi was set to join us there later in the evening. The journey from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay took us about 2 hours by road. After bustling through the city, we hit an express-way flanked by rice fields, a sight to behold throughout the ride. As we rolled into the town of Ha Long Bay, we caught sight of the newly minted seaport bustling with cargo traffic. The old port had undergone a glamorous makeover, transformed into luxurious resorts and weekend getaway residential complexes.

We snagged a spot in one of these swanky new resorts. Munna had snagged us a sprawling 5-bedroom villa within the resort — a massive property with about 100 odd villas.

Us “Boyz,” all ten of us, have been thick as thieves since 1990, forging a bond of friendship, trust, and brotherhood. We practically grew up together in the same academic environment. Products of the ’90s, our life aspirations were modest, but the academic pressure to excel was sky-high. As we graduated, completed our professional courses, and embarked on our respective paths, we found ways to stick together. I couldn’t be prouder of the Boyz. As a group, we’ve always had each other’s backs through thick and thin. Personally, I’ve lost count of the times I’ve leaned on the Boyz for real support — they’re my rock.

We were in for a surprise the next day, during breakfast, when we discovered we were the sole occupants in the entire resort. Post breakfast, we were in for a day cruise around the Gulf of Tonkin. Ha Long Bay, in the local tongue, means “Descending Dragon.” There are numerous tales recounting how the bay was formed as a colossal dragon descended into the area, with seawater rushing into the valley as the dragon playfully splashed into the ocean before disappearing. Some folks still believe the dragon lurks around the bay to this day.

The terminal building was massive, offering a plethora of cruise options — day trips, overnight adventures, and multi-day excursions. It’s wise to book your cruise in advance to avoid last-minute let-downs. The Boyz were all dressed in pink T-shirts, which we gifted ourselves on our 50th birthdays. Although they were from the same brand, we realized that all our T-shirts had slight colour variations, probably because they were bought at different points in time and from different stores or cities.

The Gulf boasts over 2,000 islets, most of them cone-shaped and covered in lush forests. The verdant greenery reflecting on the aquamarine waters is a sight to behold. Some islets even bear striking resemblances to various animals, depending on your imagination. Nonetheless, each one of the islets offers a splendid photo op against the backdrop of sun, sea, and sand. Our cruise guide treated us to a brief history of Ha Long Bay before we tucked into lunch.

Floating villages dot the middle of the Gulf – Cua Van village being one of them. Several hundred families still call these floating houses home, their abodes tethered together, creating a village-like vibe.

Some of the limestone islets are hollow, creating cave-like structures. There are more than 50 such caves listed with the local authorities. Among these, Sung Sot Cave, also called “Surprise Cave”, stands out as the largest and most famous among tourists, probably because of its size and grandeur. With the day cruise, visits are always rushed. It would be nice to customize the cruise route and stopovers to one’s preference. These days, holidays have become a rushed affair with very little time to stand and stare. Sung Sot cave is located on Bo Hon island. The entire cave is covered with stalactites and stalagmites, lit with lights of different hues. The effect of the sea water on the creation of these caves can be seen on the ceilings, where a ripple-like pattern is visible, and the sparkling stalactites make the cave shimmer. I’ll let the photographs do the talking for the splendid beauty of the caves.

Afterward, our cruise ship docked, where we had the option to take a ride on a bamboo boat or kayak. The ride through the karsts is quite fascinating and great for clicking photographs to remember. Saala took the kayak by himself, while Gulla and FoxPro opted for a twin-shared kayak. Gulla and FoxPro took some time to get the hang of the kayak, especially coordinating their paddles in sync. Until then, they were spinning in one spot without moving ahead, much to the amusement of the rest of us. The rest of the lazy ones chose the bamboo boat ride – grateful we opted for the one. Again, it was a rushed affair.

We were all cruised to our final stopover – Ti Top Island. You could trek to the top of the mountain, about 100-200 steps. The view from the top is breathtaking. There is a small restaurant at the base of the island, where you could snack and chill, admiring the ocean waves and islets standing tall with might. The Boyz were distributed in groups of 2-3, doing their own stuff depending on their moods. Ideally, I would have loved to spend some time lazing on the white sands gulping beer, but we were to hurriedly returned to our vessel. Since we were running behind schedule, the ship started quickly, and someone realized that CFO-Shaab was missing among us. Luckily, even with a weak mobile network, we could call him to check his whereabouts. He confirmed that he was stranded on the island. We had to turn back the ship to pick him up. He received a roaring welcome from everyone on board. CFO-Shaab got his nickname due to the professional designation he carried.

The ride back to the wharf through the calm waters and far-flung islets with the sun gradually setting served as a perfect background for a pleasant evening. We all were on the terrace of the ship, singing and dancing to the music. We had overcast weather throughout the day with a light breeze.

Most tourists kick off from Hanoi early in the day, wrap up their Ha Long Bay day cruise, and zip back to Hanoi by evening. We had a three-night stay lined up in Ha Long Bay. March was an off-peak season for tourists, so the Ha Long Bay area looked deserted after 7 pm. It took us some time to find a restaurant that served both veg and non-veg options for an early dinner. Back at the resort, whisky and wine were patiently waiting for our return. Since we didn’t have anything scheduled for the next day, our gossip continued late into the night or early morning — I really don’t remember. Due to chilly weather, we stayed indoors and were unable to take a dip in the plunge pool in our villa. The next day, post-breakfast, Jija-Ji headed back to Hanoi to catch his return flight to Mumbai. Sex-Sex and I decided to take it easy and sleep in. The rest of the Boyz decided to take a small city tour.

The city area around didn’t have much to offer, so the Boyz indulged in shopping, and due to a lack of other options, they all ended up in a massage parlour to shake off their tiredness. Saala and Maggi found an amazing seafood restaurant, where they pampered themselves with an elaborate lunch spread. Back at the resort, Sex-Sex and I decided to take a walk along the streets of Ha Long Bay. We carelessly strolled around the neighbourhood without any sense of direction or objective. We sat down on a bench by the side of the road to watch the locals pass by. There weren’t too many people on the road or vehicle movement. The whole city had been transformed, and hotels/resorts were constructed to take care of the tourist influx for the next 20 years. It looked like a nicely maintained ghost town. A local out for his evening walk stopped by and chatted with us for some time, telling us the history of the location and how Chinese money had found its way into Ha Long Bay real estate, etc. He worked as a tour guide and organized tours in and around Vietnam. He had his next batch of tourists coming in a couple of days. He directed us to the seafront area, where we could walk around and enjoy the sunset. The weather was much better today — the sun was shining. Probably we could have enjoyed another round of cruise again today.

As we strolled along the promenade, we couldn’t help but notice the locals soaking up the cool breeze atmosphere with their various activities. Some were simply taking a leisurely walk, others had their furry friends with them, a few were lost in romantic moments with their partners. There was even a group of ladies all dolled up for a wedding, pausing for a photo session. The backdrop was breathtaking – the sun dipping below the horizon, its rays dancing on the water, and tiny fishing boats clustered near the shore, creating a scene straight out of a dream. On our way back, we stopped at a cozy little restaurant along the road for some light snacks.

Later that night, we found ourselves still grappling with the same problem: finding a suitable restaurant. But luck was on our side when we stumbled upon an Indian restaurant – Vanakkam, tucked away in one corner of the city. To our delight, the food was absolutely fantastic, and we savoured every bite. The Indian chef/owner, who had been living in Ha Long Bay with his Vietnamese wife for the past 15 years, greeted us warmly. It was a unique experience having the local residents assist us with placing our orders and recommending the restaurant’s specialities. For the first time, we ditched the beer for some desi masala chaas.

The next day, as planned, we bid farewell to Ha Long Bay and headed back to Hanoi. Before we said final goodbye to Ha Long Bay, Saala, Maggi and myself, dipped into the swimming pool. The water in the pool was quite cold but we had to do it.

I had a flight to catch to Siem Reap in the evening, while the rest of the Boyz were set to return to Mumbai the following day.

What a perfect short getaway it was! Here’s to more adventures and unforgettable memories with the Boyz! Cheers, everyone!

PS: During the trip, we meet some very interesting tourists from various parts of the world – Denmark, Argentina, Japan, Sri Lanka, China, Canada, etc. They were kind enough to share their travel photographs with us. Glancing through their photographs, I am quite excited to cover Vietnam beyond Hanoi & Ha Long Bay in near future. Some of the interesting tourist spots, you may want to include in your itinerary – Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An, Da Nang, Sapa, Ninh Binh, etc. Am taking liberty to include some of these shared photographs from around Vietnam in the Gallery section.

Gallery