Planning & Route
It all began with a phone call in mid-June 2023. My friend, brimming with excitement, proposed the idea of a joint vacation. We bounced destination ideas back and forth, but soon, a decision emerged: Kashmir – the Unexplored. A destination that promised uncharted landscapes and untold beauty, far from the usual tourist haunts.
“Khubsurti ko humne aksar bhatakte huye dekha hain, haan mene in chand alfazo me kashmir ko likha hain”
Dhawal Barot has beautifully penned down his thoughts about Kashmir in a phrase “I have often seen beauty wandering, yes I have written Kashmir in these few words”.
These lines evokes a poetic and mystical sentiment that he has frequently witnessed beauty in its wandering form, and Kashmir embodies that beauty so perfectly that he has captured the essence of Kashmir, a place synonymous with beauty, in just a few simple words or “letters.
Planning such a trip was no small feat. Exploring an untouched region takes time, energy, and a bit of calculated guesswork. My one condition was simple – No half-hearted promises. The only certainty in our plan was this: we would bypass the well-trodden paths of Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg, and Sonamarg. She readily agreed, but with one caveat – unless work intervened.
As I began my deep dive into Google Maasi (Maps), I quickly realized that what you see online barely scratches the surface of North Kashmir’s true splendour. I mean, the digital glimpse – while picturesque, captures perhaps only 5% of the region’s majestic beauty. There’s a depth here, an untamed vibrancy that doesn’t translate through a screen. The way the wind dances across the meadows, the rivers carve through the valleys, and how the warmth of its people envelops you – it’s magic. Pure, unfiltered magic.
And so, after two weeks of pouring over maps and piecing together fragments of travel information, the road ahead began to reveal itself. A rough itinerary for our adventure began to form, rich with promise and mystery – Unravelling the Unexplored!
In Kashmir, there’s always more to discover. My hope is that one day you, too, will take the plunge and witness this hidden gem in all its breathtaking glory. Nothing compares to experiencing it first-hand.
For those who are here for the route:
Touchdown @ Srinagar Airport – Gurez Valley – Tulail Valley – Watlab (Wular Lake) – Lolab Valley – Keran Valley – Tangdhar / Tithwal – Bangus Valley – Limber Wildlife Sanctuary – Srinagar Airport (via Pattan & Magam)
As any road traveller will tell you, the journey itself is half the adventure. So embrace those unexpected route changes, navigate the bumps in the road, and patiently wait for nature to reveal its breathtaking beauty. After all, as the old saying goes, “sarakh ti jaye nakab aiestha aiestha” (the veil of the road lifts slowly, revealing its secrets).
The suggested route forms a scenic circular path, offering the flexibility to explore it in reverse order if you wish. Of course, you can add a few extra stopovers or even sprinkle in some well-known tourist spots, but that means more travel days.
The final route evolved organically, thanks to the invaluable insights of my trusty companion, guide, and cabbie – Danish. He’s more than just a driver; he became a friend along the way. For all taxi services across Kashmir, you can contact Danish at +91 70066 99501. I kept Danish on board for the entire 11-day adventure, which, though a little pricier, gave me peace of mind in more ways than one. With my road trip broadly mapped out, I only needed to lock in the bookings once my friend confirmed our travel dates. Since it was off-season, there was no pressure for flight or hotel bookings. All I had to do was settle on the perfect timing – starting the trip on a Friday and wrapping it up on the following Sunday, like a true corporate escape.
Days passed in a limbo of anticipation as I waited for my friend’s confirmation. Then, in mid-July, I received the dreaded message – her boss had refused to grant any holidays in August. Just like that, our long-anticipated road trip to Paradise was teetering on the edge of cancellation. But I was smitten by the itinerary I had painstakingly crafted and couldn’t bear the thought of shelving it. After all, I’d put in so much effort. So, I made a few quick calls to other friends who might join, but as luck would have it, none of them could commit.
I found myself at a crossroads – should I brave this journey solo, knowing that my health wasn’t at its best? And going alone would mean doubling the costs. After wrestling with indecision for a couple of days, I made up my mind. Paradise was calling, and I wasn’t about to ignore it. I was going. The next morning, with excitement coursing through me, I confirmed all the bookings, making advance payments where necessary.
With every detail settled, I was finally ready. Paradise, here I come – solo, determined, and thrilled for what lay ahead.
So, as you set out on your journey, let the road be your guide, the mountains your companions, and Kashmir’s serenity your reward. Safe travels! Every twist in the path, every village you pass, holds a story waiting to be discovered. Keep your heart open, your spirit curious, and your pace unhurried. May the journey ahead be filled with awe, reflection, and unforgettable moments. Safe travels, fellow wanderer, and may the beauty of the road bring you joy and peace.
Some Vital Travel Tips
- Road Infrastructure: Overall, the roads are well-maintained. Plan your travel carefully, especially if you’re traveling with women or children. Aim to arrive at your destination in daylight. Always call ahead to your hotels and reconfirm routes, landmarks and travel times. Roadside restaurants (dhaabas) are few and far between, and they often have limited food options. Boiled eggs and Maggi are the go-to items but can run out. It’s better to stock up some snacks. While the region is still finding its feet in terms of hospitality, clear communication about your needs goes a long way;
- Identifications & Permits: Always carry your identification documents with you, along with a few photocopies. These will be needed at various police checkpoints to access sensitive areas, and sometimes you’ll even receive tokens at the check posts, which need to be returned on your way back. Keep an eye out – some of these routine checks have a few interesting quirks, but I’ll leave that for you to experience. Entry to certain border towns is restricted to Indian citizens, so be mindful if you’re traveling with foreign friends;
- General Travel Precautions: Avoid sensitive dates like Independence Day for travel near border locations, as there are often restrictions on movement. Don’t worry though – you won’t miss out on any major sights. Stay clear of taking photos at check posts or in military zones, even if no one seems to be watching. As responsible citizens, it’s wise to avoid unnecessary trouble, especially in the age of social media. Remember, some places are drone-free;
- Rules & Safety: Steer clear of narcotics! The laws are stringent, and vigilance is high, especially since drug trafficking fuels local terrorism. Alcohol might also be restricted beyond certain areas. Some check posts may have sniffer dogs – don’t break rules. All the places I visited felt completely safe for tourists. At no point did I feel uncertain or uneasy, but that doesn’t mean you should throw caution to the wind. Be smart about your travel choices;
- Locales: The locals are wonderfully warm-hearted. They live by a unique ethos called Kashmiriyat, which is always on full display. Show respect for their customs and traditions – they are as much a part of this land as the mountains and rivers. Don’t haggle too hard – be fair; a few extra rupees won’t break the bank but could mean a lot to them;
- Mobiles / Networks: Only post-paid mobile phones work in the region, and some areas only have 5G coverage, so you may want to upgrade your handset. Jio tends to have the widest coverage, but expect to be off-grid at times. Let your loved ones know in advance, and carry enough cash in case UPI doesn’t work due to poor signal.
Travel Responsibly – This land is a true paradise, so treat it with care. Keep it clean, carry your waste, and dispose of it responsibly. We all want to enjoy Kashmir’s pristine beauty, and keeping it litter-free is a simple way to contribute.
After eleven days of journeying through the hidden heart of Kashmir, one thought echoes within me: I may not have seen Jannat, but surely, it must look something like this.
Kashmir nahi dekha toh kya Dekha
If you’re planning a trip to Kashmir or explore boutique villages along LOC, we at HappyHorizon would be thrilled to curate your holiday plans to enhance your travel experiences. Feel free to reach out to us: connect@happyhorizon.in
Annexures
Day 1: Razdan Pass – Read More
Day 2: Gurez Valley – Read More
Day 3: Tulail Valley – Read More
Day 4: Bagtore Valley – Read More
Day 5: Wular Lake – Read More
Day 6: Lolab Valley – Read More
Day 7: Keran Valley – Read More
Day 8: Tangdhar / Tithwal – Read More
Day 9: Bangus Valley – Read More
Day 10: Limber Wildlife – Read More
Day 11: Pattan & Magam – Nostalgic Era – Read More
Sukumar Jain, a Mumbai-based finance professional with global experience, is also a passionate traveler, wildlife enthusiast, and an aficionado of Indian culture. Alongside his career, which includes diverse roles in international banking and finance, he's working on a wildlife coffee table book and enjoys sculpture and pottery. His interests span reading non-fiction to engaging in social and global networking.
